Monday, November 22, 2010
The NEW 420 HAVEN Social Site!
I am working on the ultimate 420 site. I'm a grower & activist, Not a WEB DESIGNER! I will be inviting everyone to it. Integrated with Facebook, Twitter & more. Actually better than FB. Able to be seen on front sign in page, Place any type of advertisement, Soo much to list. It will be done when FULLY MATURE & STICKY. I WILL INVITE ALL & HOPE I DID A GOOD ENOUGH JOB THAT YOU WILL TELL & INVITE ALL YOUR "COOL" FRIENDS! ~Bud Farmer~
Thursday, September 16, 2010
GROWING MARIJUANA IN YOUR FRIDGE OR CLOSET
This will help the new or experienced closet grower set up a simple space, at least 2 ft by 4 ft and 5 or more feet tall, into a "private" cannabis Farm. You may use an existing closet, a movable box type closet, or even an old fridge works excellent. Divide the closet into two light proof sections, one smaller than the other, if you use a fridge this is perfect.
For lighting you will need at least one set of 4 ft fluorescent tubes and ballast for Vegetative growth.
You also need a 250 or 400 watt HPS bulb and ballast for your flowering period. If you can afford it, use LED lighting for low electricity usage and less to worry about with heat during your flowering stage.
I recommend a small fan to remove air from your closet and to gently blow the plants when the lights are on. this is to keep the room cool (25*C) and supply fresh CO2.
This can be a fan sucking air from the room or an exhaust fan that draws air outside the grow room. Again, if you use LED lighting the heat won't be an issue but still use a fan for good air circulation.
The first crop will take 3 months from germinating your marijuana seeds to harvest. Make sure you get good commercial cannabis seeds suitable for indoor growth, White widow, Big bud or Ganja Dwarf are a few great ones. GO WITH FEMINIZED SEEDS ONLY! IT'S WORTH IT! Geminate your marijuana seeds using moist paper towels on a plate, cover with other plate to preserve moisture, check every 24 hours and sprinkle the cannabis seeds if needed to maintain moist towels and seeds.
If the marijuana seeds shell cracks and you can see 2mm of root comming out transplant the cannabis seed to a pot of moist, light, fertile soil and cover the pot with plastic bag to avoid drying out.
Grow your plants for 3 weeks fertilizing after the first set of leaves show.
Miracle Grow or any complete 20-20-20 fertilizer should be fed in a weak solution with every feeding. Organic or Biological fertilizers are "highly" recommended. Be very careful not to over fertilize.
After three weeks transplant the plants into larger pots (or rockwool cube in hydro setup).
Then place plants under 12 hours lighting.
Whether your 12 hour light cycle is in the day or night is up to you. But make sure that you can take care of watering and caring for your plants in the light! Do not interrupt the Dark period. This will delay the flowering process and it will take forever to complete. Also, if you interrupt the dark period there is a great chance your female plants will get a stem or two of male pollen because the plants automatically think to go into survival mode. YOU DON'T WANT THIS! KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON YOUR PLANTS IF THERE IS AN INTERRUPTION SO YOUR CROP WILL BE O.K.
The females are evident as they will grow bushy, producing many white pistils. They will grow more and more bushy and develop a main cola. Don't prune, bend plants if they grow too tall. Select a fast maturing variety such as Alaska or Skunk #1.
But how do I get 6 or 7 crops per year? you ask...
After your first harvest, Select your best female for potency, vigor and early flowering. Don't just pull plants from the roots, leave the bottom 3-4 branches and a few flowers. Revert your prize female to vegetative by placing it under a 24 hour light cycle. After a few weeks several fast growing shoots will appear, these are perfect for taking cuttings from your plants. (see my cloning procedures)
Take several 3 inch cuttings and root for 3 weeks under 24 hours light. Keep the original Mother alive for future clone crops. Keep clones in the vegetative cycle for 3 more weeks, then place in the flowering section (12/12 lighting cycle).
Now you can have a crop every 6-8 weeks, depending on the variety you grow!
While you wait for flowering to complete, you take another set of clones from your mother which is kept in 24 hours light always, and by the time they root and grow somewhat the flowering crop will be ready to harvest. This is how you keep your flowering room constantly producing buds with no down-time in-between crops!
Happy Growing ~BUD FARMER~
For lighting you will need at least one set of 4 ft fluorescent tubes and ballast for Vegetative growth.
You also need a 250 or 400 watt HPS bulb and ballast for your flowering period. If you can afford it, use LED lighting for low electricity usage and less to worry about with heat during your flowering stage.
I recommend a small fan to remove air from your closet and to gently blow the plants when the lights are on. this is to keep the room cool (25*C) and supply fresh CO2.
This can be a fan sucking air from the room or an exhaust fan that draws air outside the grow room. Again, if you use LED lighting the heat won't be an issue but still use a fan for good air circulation.
The first crop will take 3 months from germinating your marijuana seeds to harvest. Make sure you get good commercial cannabis seeds suitable for indoor growth, White widow, Big bud or Ganja Dwarf are a few great ones. GO WITH FEMINIZED SEEDS ONLY! IT'S WORTH IT! Geminate your marijuana seeds using moist paper towels on a plate, cover with other plate to preserve moisture, check every 24 hours and sprinkle the cannabis seeds if needed to maintain moist towels and seeds.
If the marijuana seeds shell cracks and you can see 2mm of root comming out transplant the cannabis seed to a pot of moist, light, fertile soil and cover the pot with plastic bag to avoid drying out.
Grow your plants for 3 weeks fertilizing after the first set of leaves show.
Miracle Grow or any complete 20-20-20 fertilizer should be fed in a weak solution with every feeding. Organic or Biological fertilizers are "highly" recommended. Be very careful not to over fertilize.
After three weeks transplant the plants into larger pots (or rockwool cube in hydro setup).
Then place plants under 12 hours lighting.
Whether your 12 hour light cycle is in the day or night is up to you. But make sure that you can take care of watering and caring for your plants in the light! Do not interrupt the Dark period. This will delay the flowering process and it will take forever to complete. Also, if you interrupt the dark period there is a great chance your female plants will get a stem or two of male pollen because the plants automatically think to go into survival mode. YOU DON'T WANT THIS! KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON YOUR PLANTS IF THERE IS AN INTERRUPTION SO YOUR CROP WILL BE O.K.
The females are evident as they will grow bushy, producing many white pistils. They will grow more and more bushy and develop a main cola. Don't prune, bend plants if they grow too tall. Select a fast maturing variety such as Alaska or Skunk #1.
But how do I get 6 or 7 crops per year? you ask...
After your first harvest, Select your best female for potency, vigor and early flowering. Don't just pull plants from the roots, leave the bottom 3-4 branches and a few flowers. Revert your prize female to vegetative by placing it under a 24 hour light cycle. After a few weeks several fast growing shoots will appear, these are perfect for taking cuttings from your plants. (see my cloning procedures)
Take several 3 inch cuttings and root for 3 weeks under 24 hours light. Keep the original Mother alive for future clone crops. Keep clones in the vegetative cycle for 3 more weeks, then place in the flowering section (12/12 lighting cycle).
Now you can have a crop every 6-8 weeks, depending on the variety you grow!
While you wait for flowering to complete, you take another set of clones from your mother which is kept in 24 hours light always, and by the time they root and grow somewhat the flowering crop will be ready to harvest. This is how you keep your flowering room constantly producing buds with no down-time in-between crops!
Happy Growing ~BUD FARMER~
Monday, August 30, 2010
SIMPLE CANNABIS CLONING..YOU ASKED FOR IT!
The Mother Plant:
If your mother plant is from seed, it should be at least 1 foot tall. But if you need lots of clones, let it get big. It pays to have patience sometimes. Your "Mother Plant" is key to huge yields of cannabis and very healthy plants.
IMPORTANT: Pick the biggest, healthiest, fastest growing plant for your mama. That's what cloning is all about. BIG TASTY BUDS!
Misting:
Mist plants heavily each morning two weeks prior to cloning. Remember, if plants are in halide area, turn off your fans and raise bulbs. If one drop of water lands on a hot bulb, then POW! No more bulb.
The misting will wash nitrogen out of plants. This will slow growth, and carbohydrates will build up in the stems. The lowest branches of your plant will root faster due to the low nitrogen and high carbohydrate levels.
Rooting Medium:
You can root in rockwool, perlite, sand, vermiculite, sunshine mixes, dirt, and even water. I prefer to use rockwool because it is easy to handle, easy to transport, and it keeps your clone area clean. I LIKE ROCKWOLL PERSONALLY... Very easy to transport to hydroponics growing, soil growing
24 hours before cloning you should prepare your rooting medium by watering it with a mix of one liter of water and some horticultural fungicide. Put the medium into a nursery tray. Put the tray in the clone room, 12" from the light source, which should be left on constantly.
Taking the Clone:
Get a clean coffee cup, baby food jar, or other such container, and fill with water. Do not use hot water, cool tap water or distilled bottled water are recommended. Let tap water sit overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
Start your first cutting on the bottom branch. The cutting should be 2"-6" in length. You will leave the growing tip, a small leaf, and one or two larger leaves. Below the last leaf you will cut off more leaves 1/8" from the main stem.
Below the bottom leaf cut you should make a straight cut perpendicular to the stem. Immediately place the cutting into the container of water. This will prevent an air bubble from blocking the transpiration stream.
After all clones are taken, put in clone closet, (but not in direct light) for 24 hours. Mist clones gently once or twice during this period.
The next day, take your tray with the medium and use a small nail to make a 1/4" deep hole in each clone site. Take one clone, dip in rooting hormone or CLONE GEL (my favorite), generously coating 1/4" to 1/2" of the stem before inserting it into the hole in the medium.
Push the clone in gently until it is 1/2" to 3/4" into the medium. Trickle a few drops of rooting hormone down the stem to ensure that it is set properly.
Mist the clone again and put a foot away from the fluorescent light. Leave the light on constantly until the clones have rooted, which should take from one to four weeks. You can use a humidity cover or tent if you want to, but I don't use one.
I mist my clones 6-7 times or so a day, and they root in 5 to 11 days. Keep the medium moist but not saturated. When necessary, water lightly with a mixture of water and No-damp. Let the rockwool get a bit on the dry side rather than letting it become too wet.
After roots start to appear, transplant the clone gently into whatever medium you have chosen to grow it in. Water gently with 1/2" strength flowering food. If you are planting clones rooted in rockwool into a pro mix, make sure to bury cube with 1/2" of soil.
It will help keep cube from drying out, as rockwool generously gives up its moisture to anything. That's it. Expect a minimum 50% survival rate. Good luck!
If your mother plant is from seed, it should be at least 1 foot tall. But if you need lots of clones, let it get big. It pays to have patience sometimes. Your "Mother Plant" is key to huge yields of cannabis and very healthy plants.
IMPORTANT: Pick the biggest, healthiest, fastest growing plant for your mama. That's what cloning is all about. BIG TASTY BUDS!
Misting:
Mist plants heavily each morning two weeks prior to cloning. Remember, if plants are in halide area, turn off your fans and raise bulbs. If one drop of water lands on a hot bulb, then POW! No more bulb.
The misting will wash nitrogen out of plants. This will slow growth, and carbohydrates will build up in the stems. The lowest branches of your plant will root faster due to the low nitrogen and high carbohydrate levels.
Rooting Medium:
You can root in rockwool, perlite, sand, vermiculite, sunshine mixes, dirt, and even water. I prefer to use rockwool because it is easy to handle, easy to transport, and it keeps your clone area clean. I LIKE ROCKWOLL PERSONALLY... Very easy to transport to hydroponics growing, soil growing
24 hours before cloning you should prepare your rooting medium by watering it with a mix of one liter of water and some horticultural fungicide. Put the medium into a nursery tray. Put the tray in the clone room, 12" from the light source, which should be left on constantly.
Taking the Clone:
Get a clean coffee cup, baby food jar, or other such container, and fill with water. Do not use hot water, cool tap water or distilled bottled water are recommended. Let tap water sit overnight to allow the chlorine to evaporate.
Start your first cutting on the bottom branch. The cutting should be 2"-6" in length. You will leave the growing tip, a small leaf, and one or two larger leaves. Below the last leaf you will cut off more leaves 1/8" from the main stem.
Below the bottom leaf cut you should make a straight cut perpendicular to the stem. Immediately place the cutting into the container of water. This will prevent an air bubble from blocking the transpiration stream.
After all clones are taken, put in clone closet, (but not in direct light) for 24 hours. Mist clones gently once or twice during this period.
The next day, take your tray with the medium and use a small nail to make a 1/4" deep hole in each clone site. Take one clone, dip in rooting hormone or CLONE GEL (my favorite), generously coating 1/4" to 1/2" of the stem before inserting it into the hole in the medium.
Push the clone in gently until it is 1/2" to 3/4" into the medium. Trickle a few drops of rooting hormone down the stem to ensure that it is set properly.
Mist the clone again and put a foot away from the fluorescent light. Leave the light on constantly until the clones have rooted, which should take from one to four weeks. You can use a humidity cover or tent if you want to, but I don't use one.
I mist my clones 6-7 times or so a day, and they root in 5 to 11 days. Keep the medium moist but not saturated. When necessary, water lightly with a mixture of water and No-damp. Let the rockwool get a bit on the dry side rather than letting it become too wet.
After roots start to appear, transplant the clone gently into whatever medium you have chosen to grow it in. Water gently with 1/2" strength flowering food. If you are planting clones rooted in rockwool into a pro mix, make sure to bury cube with 1/2" of soil.
It will help keep cube from drying out, as rockwool generously gives up its moisture to anything. That's it. Expect a minimum 50% survival rate. Good luck!
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Simple Indoor Hydroponic Growing
You need a little growing experience before you start growing cannabis hydroponically.
When you move to Hydro it gives way better yields than Most Conventional soil growing methods. It also shortens grow times from start to finish. In hydro you concentrate to maximize your operation by taking advantage of all that makes cannabis crops turn out a maximum yield, like light, nutrients, co2 ventilation, and good cannabis seeds to start with.
Maybe use both hydroponic and soil growing methods to view the difference first hand.
IMPORTANT: Keep it a secret. Don't let anyone know you're growing cannabis. The best way to get shut down is to tell people.
You will save time in the cannabis grow cycle. Hydroponic cannabis growing takes a few less weeks than growing cannabis in soil. You'll be smoking buds way quicker. The cannabis flowers tops will also be bigger and juicier. Start to flower the cannabis plant at about 2 feet tall and during the flowering cycle it will grow twice as big (MINIMUM). You don't really have to wait for a 6 foot tall plant. 4 plants can get you 1/4 pound dried and cured bud, but you also need to be using good yielding strains this means good cannabis seeds.
Hydroponic growing requires some form of inert growing medium to support the plant, protect the roots from sunlight and to keep the root moist at all times.
The most important thing to remember when growing in hydroponics is:
Watch and adjust the pH level so that it always stays within the 5.5 to 6.8 pH range, optimum pH is at 6.3 - 6.5, and you should know that the natural tendency in hydroponics is an increase in the pH over time as plants use up nutrients, so you have to watch it and adjust it with either pH Down or Up chemicals which come in dry powder or wet liquid forms.
Change the hydro-water and re-supply the water with fresh nutrients (properly mixed) for whatever stage your plants are in every 10 days or so.
Root tissue should not be allowed to get too cold or too warm, maintain the nutrient solution at a minimum temp of 50 F at night, and 70 F during the day when the light are turned on, HID lighting produced heat, unlike fluorescent (which we do not recommend), yes you can grow under them, but you will need a lot of them.
Unless you live in an area where the Police routinely fly over to check for heat spots, not a big deal. LED lights are the way to go and also more efficient then any other available human made artificial source of light, and since you want to give it the best light to maximize your operation, you go with that, and that's that.
Supply the correct lighting for the stage that you are in, and try to move air over your canopy to bring in fresh oxygen. I would stay away from buying CO2 bottles, instead you can buy Carbon in a liquid form and apply it directly to the roots on the plants by mixing it into the hydroponic water. CO2 bottles can bring unwanted attention to you, as you have to have them re-filled.
Start with a single net pod system and play around with it and experiment, once you outgrow it, you'll know everything that is needed to make a kit and then you should be able to plan a larger kit to hold maybe 4-10 or more plants. If you have no imagination and are low on technical skills, go to the hydroponic store, pull out your cash and buy a nice kit.
When you move to Hydro it gives way better yields than Most Conventional soil growing methods. It also shortens grow times from start to finish. In hydro you concentrate to maximize your operation by taking advantage of all that makes cannabis crops turn out a maximum yield, like light, nutrients, co2 ventilation, and good cannabis seeds to start with.
Maybe use both hydroponic and soil growing methods to view the difference first hand.
IMPORTANT: Keep it a secret. Don't let anyone know you're growing cannabis. The best way to get shut down is to tell people.
You will save time in the cannabis grow cycle. Hydroponic cannabis growing takes a few less weeks than growing cannabis in soil. You'll be smoking buds way quicker. The cannabis flowers tops will also be bigger and juicier. Start to flower the cannabis plant at about 2 feet tall and during the flowering cycle it will grow twice as big (MINIMUM). You don't really have to wait for a 6 foot tall plant. 4 plants can get you 1/4 pound dried and cured bud, but you also need to be using good yielding strains this means good cannabis seeds.
Hydroponic growing requires some form of inert growing medium to support the plant, protect the roots from sunlight and to keep the root moist at all times.
The most important thing to remember when growing in hydroponics is:
Watch and adjust the pH level so that it always stays within the 5.5 to 6.8 pH range, optimum pH is at 6.3 - 6.5, and you should know that the natural tendency in hydroponics is an increase in the pH over time as plants use up nutrients, so you have to watch it and adjust it with either pH Down or Up chemicals which come in dry powder or wet liquid forms.
Change the hydro-water and re-supply the water with fresh nutrients (properly mixed) for whatever stage your plants are in every 10 days or so.
Root tissue should not be allowed to get too cold or too warm, maintain the nutrient solution at a minimum temp of 50 F at night, and 70 F during the day when the light are turned on, HID lighting produced heat, unlike fluorescent (which we do not recommend), yes you can grow under them, but you will need a lot of them.
Unless you live in an area where the Police routinely fly over to check for heat spots, not a big deal. LED lights are the way to go and also more efficient then any other available human made artificial source of light, and since you want to give it the best light to maximize your operation, you go with that, and that's that.
Supply the correct lighting for the stage that you are in, and try to move air over your canopy to bring in fresh oxygen. I would stay away from buying CO2 bottles, instead you can buy Carbon in a liquid form and apply it directly to the roots on the plants by mixing it into the hydroponic water. CO2 bottles can bring unwanted attention to you, as you have to have them re-filled.
Start with a single net pod system and play around with it and experiment, once you outgrow it, you'll know everything that is needed to make a kit and then you should be able to plan a larger kit to hold maybe 4-10 or more plants. If you have no imagination and are low on technical skills, go to the hydroponic store, pull out your cash and buy a nice kit.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
INDOOR MITES AND MOLD They Suck....Literally!
All my information is meant to inform Cannabis Growers in states where they can grow legally.
GROWER'S, LEARN HOW TO GROW BIOLOGICALLY AND YOU WILL RARELY HAVE ANY PROBLEMS LIKE THESE AND ALSO GET THE BIGGEST, HEALTHIEST YIELD. THAT'S WHAT WE ALL WANT! Read on...
Mites
You know you DON'T have to poison your plants with pesticide sprays and chemicals for spider mites... especially during flowering!
Spider mites attack plants that are basically sick. It's an imbalance of something (too much or too little) in your growing environment. I don't care if you do a soil or nutrient test everyday (which you should), if THE NUTRIENTS ARE NOT ALL AVAILABLE TO YOUR PLANT, then what's the use of them being there anyway. "Nutrient Utilization" or uptake is a very important part of a healthy plant. Environment or climate control is also very important.
There are many ways to be MITE FREE! What has worked to become spider mite free: A combo of calcium plus soil solution and liquid sea weed added to your current feeding cycle. Apply every 7 to 10 days. Do this even after the health problems are solved because the calcium and Sea Weed is what is needed for your plant's "Nutrient Utilization" (uptake).(if done correct there would not be any problems to begin with). Trial and error :-) Read on...
Here are some other growers "natural" ways that are very effective if you are growing with conventional nutrients and need some quick remedies:
There is a product called azamax on the market.
It gets rid of mites in just a few applications.
It is omri listed. (organic)
Lady bugs work very well. I have never had to use them but FACT they will eat the mites and their eggs. 2-3 per plant is all that is needed.
If I'm not mistaken... there is also an oil (zeem I think) that will aid in the suffocation of mites and their egg cycles.
PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT & DON'T FORGET TO SHARE
Mold
Climate, Climate, Climate! It's what it's all about. With all the different areas and spaces that cannabis is grown or tried to be grown, it's tough to maintain the perfect climate. We all try like crazy though don't we!
Mold or Mildew (powdery) obviously comes from Moisture...period! If you have it, you need to check to make sure your not over watering. You also need to check the humidity levels. During VEG. stage, your levels should not exceed 80% maximum...but 60-70% is best. During the FLOWERING stage (the fun part) it is best to keep the humidity below 50%...35%-45% is fine.
Here are some other growers "natural" ways that are very effective if you are growing with conventional nutrients and need some quick remedies:
PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT & DON'T FORGET TO SHARE
Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects. Some good stuff here!
Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe and effective contact fungicide. Mildew will not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.
Cinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to Cannabis Plants.
Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.
These new remedies make it much easier to deal with mold and powdery mildew issues. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.
GROWER'S, LEARN HOW TO GROW BIOLOGICALLY AND YOU WILL RARELY HAVE ANY PROBLEMS LIKE THESE AND ALSO GET THE BIGGEST, HEALTHIEST YIELD. THAT'S WHAT WE ALL WANT!
GROWER'S, LEARN HOW TO GROW BIOLOGICALLY AND YOU WILL RARELY HAVE ANY PROBLEMS LIKE THESE AND ALSO GET THE BIGGEST, HEALTHIEST YIELD. THAT'S WHAT WE ALL WANT! Read on...
Mites
You know you DON'T have to poison your plants with pesticide sprays and chemicals for spider mites... especially during flowering!
Spider mites attack plants that are basically sick. It's an imbalance of something (too much or too little) in your growing environment. I don't care if you do a soil or nutrient test everyday (which you should), if THE NUTRIENTS ARE NOT ALL AVAILABLE TO YOUR PLANT, then what's the use of them being there anyway. "Nutrient Utilization" or uptake is a very important part of a healthy plant. Environment or climate control is also very important.
There are many ways to be MITE FREE! What has worked to become spider mite free: A combo of calcium plus soil solution and liquid sea weed added to your current feeding cycle. Apply every 7 to 10 days. Do this even after the health problems are solved because the calcium and Sea Weed is what is needed for your plant's "Nutrient Utilization" (uptake).(if done correct there would not be any problems to begin with). Trial and error :-) Read on...
Here are some other growers "natural" ways that are very effective if you are growing with conventional nutrients and need some quick remedies:
There is a product called azamax on the market.
It gets rid of mites in just a few applications.
It is omri listed. (organic)
Lady bugs work very well. I have never had to use them but FACT they will eat the mites and their eggs. 2-3 per plant is all that is needed.
If I'm not mistaken... there is also an oil (zeem I think) that will aid in the suffocation of mites and their egg cycles.
PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT & DON'T FORGET TO SHARE
Mold
Climate, Climate, Climate! It's what it's all about. With all the different areas and spaces that cannabis is grown or tried to be grown, it's tough to maintain the perfect climate. We all try like crazy though don't we!
Mold or Mildew (powdery) obviously comes from Moisture...period! If you have it, you need to check to make sure your not over watering. You also need to check the humidity levels. During VEG. stage, your levels should not exceed 80% maximum...but 60-70% is best. During the FLOWERING stage (the fun part) it is best to keep the humidity below 50%...35%-45% is fine.
Here are some other growers "natural" ways that are very effective if you are growing with conventional nutrients and need some quick remedies:
PLEASE LEAVE A COMMENT & DON'T FORGET TO SHARE
Plant Shield: Plant Shield contains the organism Trichoderma harzianum strain T-22. This organism attacks fungi and mildews. It is used as a spray or dip. The organism seeks its food and forms a symbiotic relationship with plant roots, which it also protects. Some good stuff here!
Potassium Bicarbonate: Potassium bicarbonate collapses and desiccates the mildew hyphae. This is a very safe and effective contact fungicide. Mildew will not develop resistance to it. The potassium in the formula is absorbed by the plant. Two brands are Kaligreen (registered in California) and Armicarb100.
Cinnamite: Cinnamite is an extract of cinnamon used as a miticide which is also effective as a fungicide. It is very easy to use, is effective and has a pleasant cinnamon odor. Studies show it is not harmful to Cannabis Plants.
Sulfur: Elememtal sulfur interferes with mildew cellular respiration. It has been used as a fungicide for more than 100 years. There are small packages available in the baking sections of supermarkets.
These new remedies make it much easier to deal with mold and powdery mildew issues. They are all non-toxic and eliminate the problem fairly easily.
GROWER'S, LEARN HOW TO GROW BIOLOGICALLY AND YOU WILL RARELY HAVE ANY PROBLEMS LIKE THESE AND ALSO GET THE BIGGEST, HEALTHIEST YIELD. THAT'S WHAT WE ALL WANT!
Sunday, June 27, 2010
What do you use cannabis for!
I use marijuana for my stress and anxiety disorder.
Many smoke weed, vaporize weed, or eat marijuana butter with food.
WHAT DO YOU USE MARIJUANA FOR & HOW DO YOU USE IT?
PLEASE PARTICIPATE IN THE POLL :-)
Click comment, anonymous, post your answer. Thank you!
Many smoke weed, vaporize weed, or eat marijuana butter with food.
WHAT DO YOU USE MARIJUANA FOR & HOW DO YOU USE IT?
PLEASE PARTICIPATE IN THE POLL :-)
Click comment, anonymous, post your answer. Thank you!
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Important watering tip for growing Cannabis, Marijuana
Some of you might already know this, but for the rest ...here it is.
This is "for Organic soil growing" (the best anyway).
Ya see, Cannabis is a very tough plant but "OVER WATERING" is the main reason growers get small yields from thier grows. The root zone of your plants is the key to the BIG BUDS.
When you have a potted grow, you need to monitor your plants carefully not to overwater. Here's the trick: It's Simple!
You almost want to starve your plants from water...(almost)
They need minimal watering especially during the bud (flowering stage)
How to do it: Use good distilled water. Get it at least room temperature. When applying your water this is the most IMPORTANT part. You want to apply your water in a circle around the outmost rim of your planted pot. This forces the roots to "go get the water" making a stronger, healthier plant with no chance of root rot. You water a bit more water during the vegitation stage and when you start the flowering (budding stage), only give your cannabis plants as least water as needed.
RESULT: You will have the largest plants possible in the environment they are (all different of course)and your plants will put out super buds. Especially with my special "organic recipe" (see blog).
If you have any questions and want more details, Contact 420 haven or comment here and I will get back with you.
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